About
You know the saying: "Good things come in small packages." This is especially true of El Califa de Leon, a quaint taqueria in the San Rafael neighborhood.
Juan Hernández González opened his restaurant in 1968, naming it after the legendary bullfighter Rodolfo Gaona, who was nicknamed "El Califa de Leon." The bullfighter was famous for creating his signature move, the "gaonera," and you'll find a taco on the menu in honor of this feat.
Speaking of tacos and small packages, the menu at El Califa is simple, with only four tacos to choose from: the Gaonera, the Bistec, the Costilla, and the Chuleta. We'll discuss these in more detail in our next section.
Regarding the facility, it's a 30' wide streetside eatery with a walkup counter and open kitchen. And that's it; no dining area, no fancy decor—just honest, home-cooked tacos.
But we've saved the best for last. In 2024, this humble restaurant received a Michelin star for its Gaonera taco, making it the first taquería in the world to receive a Michelin star.
Sadly, Juan passed before receiving this honor, but his son, Mario Hernández Alonso, continues his father's legacy. And while it's tempting to open new restaurants with this newfound success, Mario remains true to his father's philosophy: "Don't fix what isn't broken."
It's for these reasons that you should add this small taqueria to your to-do list. Visit and discover that while small in size, the tacos are huge in flavor.
Vibe
Let's cut to the chase: the exterior is nothing outstanding. At the same time, it's not appalling. If you're expecting glowing neon lights or a trendy facade, you'll be very disappointed. On the other hand, if you seek the Real McCoy per street food, this is the spot!
The painted marquee is professionally done, but is simple and to the point. A white awning protects diners when ordering at the window, while one window offers a glimpse into the bustling kitchen.
The atmosphere is homey, and while there's no indoor seating, many sit on the curb or eat while sightseeing at Paseo de la Reforma and the Museo Nacional de Antropología.
If you're seeking a restaurant that doesn't look or feel like a tourist trap, then this is the place for you.
El Califa de Leon: Menu & Drinks
Let's begin with the El Jefe taco that put this tiny taqueria on the international food map: The Gaonera.
This signature handheld features a thin cut of filet mignon that is served whole on a house-made corn tortilla with lime, your choice of salsa, and grain salt. The result is a melt-in-your-mouth experience that will confirm that it's a Michelin winner.
Next is the Bistec, which showcases a generous cut of beef served on a corn tortilla with lime, salt, and salsa. Unlike the other tacos that come as a pair, this one is served by itself due to its size. It's ideal after a full day exploring the Pyramids of Teotihuacan.
The Costilla will appeal to diners craving beef ribs. The meat is sliced thinly and seasoned with lime and salt, and is juicy and tender. Like the others, it comes on a corn tortilla with lime and salsa.
Last but not least is the Chuleta taco. This handheld features thinly sliced pork chop that is seared golden brown yet juicy on the inside. It also comes in a handmade corn tortilla with only lime, salt, and salsa added.
While El Califa doesn't serve alcohol, you'll find refreshing soft drinks and Mexican beverages like Sidral and Boing. These pair with any of the tacos and will refresh after visiting the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe.
As we stated at the start, good things come in small packages. At El Califa de Leon, you'll find this is true. Adding it to your vacation itinerary is not only a must, but is a rite of passage when visiting Mexico City.
Local Tips
- This place gets busy, so arrive early.
- Remember, be patient; all tacos are made to order.
- Its late hours make it perfect after a night on the town.
- Grab a bag to go and enjoy them back in your Casago rental.
